photo by Tal Bright
For aspiring and seasoned travelers, there is no other city that quite captures the glamor of a martini glass, the pizzazz of a belly dancer, and the wild imagination of two continents.
An American friend I had taught with in Taiwan beckoned me to Istanbul with tales of local men serenading Western women, luring them into love spells with baklava. Her descriptions of lunch by the seaside and bustling spice markets charmed me all the way to the travel agency.
“It’s my New York, but better,” she had said.
I got my suitcase and tea glass ready.
Upon arriving, a crowd of fake blondes congregated at the airport entry gates with the sort of urgency that says, “This is a great place.” Counting bright headscarf after bright headscarf, my first impression of Istanbul was part-Europe, part-Asia, and part hyperactive kid on the beach.
Now that I have been living and teaching in Istanbul for a few months, there’s still enough radiation to keep me feeling like a holiday girl, even teaching forty plus hours a week.
Considerations for teaching
photo by tinou bao
Money
When contemplating a job here, it is important to remember that you are still the same old barking English seal teacher that you are anywhere else in Asia, but you will probably get paid decent money and have enough eager students, to make it worthwhile.
Local Vibe
Be prepared to entertain your students as much as you teach them, and anticipate to be showered with home-cooked food from friendly students who appreciate the effort you put into your classes. Most will be willing to share their language and culture.
Culture
Should you tire of the workaholic schedule that English schools will likely impose, there is always the hammam (Turkish bath) to indulge in, where a burly masseuse or masseur, will scrub you like Hercules.
Cuisine
Culinary delights abound, including fish still squirming fresh on the market table, sold by boisterous men in rubber boots. Rice is most often replaced with a range of other, more inspiring carbohydrates, like flower-shaped herb bread, and cherry-filled baklava.
The mighty lamb is prevalent, sliced with grilled peppers and tomatoes, and served together with yogurt, cilantro and pita bread.
Job Placement
For those seeking ESL teaching work in Istanbul, numerous jobs abound, and can be found simply by walking into the language schools themselves, or by applying with a resume, cover letter, photo and scanned copy of qualifications and passport over the Internet.
While I have never heard of an English school here that doesn’t need teachers (which means you will probably be working some serious overtime) private language schools mostly hire people with a Canadian, British, Australian, or American passport, a TESOL certificate (or similar qualification) and/or a degree in any subject, from a recognized university.
First time-teachers are usually welcome, as are people of various ages. My current work staff includes everyone from ages twenty to fifty-five, and they are generally sane people, from various professional backgrounds.
Accomodation
Some schools provide accommodation, but most don’t. However, there are throngs of English-teachers actively searching for roommates, and most language schools will offer some help in finding an affordable and comfortable place to live.
Prices
Costs for accommodation, food, and other necessities of life are comparable to Canada, the US and some parts of Europe. As Turkey is in close proximity to several Middle-Eastern and European countries, you may also want to travel.
Depending on whether or not you choose to go by train, plane, bus or car, prices can vary from the extraordinarily cheap to the staggeringly expensive.
photo by robokow
Activities
Istanbul has no shortage of things to do. In the Greek Quarter, old women haggle over striped socks at the market and fruit vendors greet shoppers with heaping triangles of olives and figs. Speeding taxis with bashed-in fronts steer and skid amongst the crowds of pedestrians spilling over the curbs in the downtown districts.
Ladies selling flowers by the boat docks push stems of daffodils under your nose, commanding, in their hats and headscarves, a mere dollar a bundle.
One of my best moments so far in Istanbul has been taking pictures of stray cats in a historic graveyard at 7am, while men and women beat carpets, men prayed, and children chased pigeons. People were doing their everyday activities, but it was nonetheless impressive.
Nightlife
Numerous nightclubs in almost every area of the city provide a comfortable places for expats and locals alike to get their groove on. While going out is expensive, one will feel at the end of the evening, as if their money has been well spent.
In Istanbul, atmosphere is everything- clubs and pubs are usually “dressed to the nines”, with plush velour, seaside seating, water pipes, hip music and cheerful chatter, in a multitude of languages.
For me, Istanbul is a spot to rest my rucksack while I’m turning the tricks of the English teaching trade, but my respect for the place and its people now goes beyond my initial pinwheel of tourist images. It is now my temporary home, and one that I see myself returning to.
For aspiring and seasoned travelers, there is no other city that quite captures the glamor of a martini glass, the pizzazz of a belly dancer, and the wild imagination of two continents.
As for whether it’s “better than New York,” I’m hardly to judge, but surely, anyone who comes here to teach will not be disappointed.
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43 Comments... join the discussion!
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Dear Emily,
Thank you for a great article me and my friends were looking at teaching in Istanbul in a short while i guess this is a lot of help for us.
We really like the way you have managed to fit everything in short.
great read !
Thank you once again
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Dear Emily,
Thank you for a great article me and my friends were looking at teaching in Istanbul in a short while i guess this is a lot of help for us.
We really like the way you have managed to fit everything in short.
great read !
Thank you once again
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Emily, Istanbul sounds fascinating!
I had no idea you were in Taiwan, too! Where were you teaching? I was working in Taichung, Jilong, I-Lan, Tou-Cheng and Taipei, '02-'05!
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Emily, Istanbul sounds fascinating!
I had no idea you were in Taiwan, too! Where were you teaching? I was working in Taichung, Jilong, I-Lan, Tou-Cheng and Taipei, ‘02-’05!
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Thanks Daniel, It is an amazing place! I was teaching in Taichung for Kojen and then Columbia. Loved Taiwan and the people there- really friendly…kind of like the Turks.
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(Don't worry, I was leading up to that…)
What are the Turkish students like? For example, Korean students don't seem to like their desks in "radical" patterns other than straight rows; Taiwanese kids traditionally don't engage in dialogues with teachers unless the teacher begins talking to them – that sort of thing. Is there anything particularly unique about them, say, compared to the Taiwanese?
As a foreigner, how are you welcomed into the classrooms – not only by the students, but by faculty and parents as well?
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(Don’t worry, I was leading up to that…)
What are the Turkish students like? For example, Korean students don’t seem to like their desks in “radical” patterns other than straight rows; Taiwanese kids traditionally don’t engage in dialogues with teachers unless the teacher begins talking to them – that sort of thing. Is there anything particularly unique about them, say, compared to the Taiwanese?
As a foreigner, how are you welcomed into the classrooms – not only by the students, but by faculty and parents as well?
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Hello Emily!
My name is Felicia and I am currently teaching and working as a photographer here in Seoul, South Korea.
I am thinking of teaching English in Istanbul. I have also taught in France (5 years) and in Sweden (4 years)/Would you be so kind as to give me names of reputable companies in Istanbul?
Thank you so much!
Here's my email address:
felicia369ny@yahoo.com
http://www.nearandfar.wordpress.com
Ciao!↵ -
Hello Emily!
My name is Felicia and I am currently teaching and working as a photographer here in Seoul, South Korea.
I am thinking of teaching English in Istanbul. I have also taught in France (5 years) and in Sweden (4 years)/Would you be so kind as to give me names of reputable companies in Istanbul?
Thank you so much!
Here’s my email address:
felicia369ny@yahoo.com
http://www.nearandfar.wordpress.comCiao!
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Hi Emily,
I enjoyed your overview of Istanbul. We are pretty savvy world travelers who have discussed working abroad. We both have been doing travel assignments in the US (consulting) for years. I taught Freshman English many years ago at the college level. Was authorized too do substitute high school teaching in my home city as well.
Because we love travel so much (Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, Rome, Amsterdam, all Italy and Holland mostly) we also have discussed Istanbul. A close friend just returned and raved about it.
I hate to sound like a "gimme" type, but would it be possible to tell us the company you got your assignment there with? In doing our prelim investigation about the possibility of teaching in Bangkok we encountered a bunch of bogus and scam outfits that paid nothing and didn;t look too trustworthy.
Thanks, sincerely,KO
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Hi Emily,
I enjoyed your overview of Istanbul. We are pretty savvy world travelers who have discussed working abroad. We both have been doing travel assignments in the US (consulting) for years. I taught Freshman English many years ago at the college level. Was authorized too do substitute high school teaching in my home city as well.
Because we love travel so much (Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, Rome, Amsterdam, all Italy and Holland mostly) we also have discussed Istanbul. A close friend just returned and raved about it.
I hate to sound like a “gimme” type, but would it be possible to tell us the company you got your assignment there with? In doing our prelim investigation about the possibility of teaching in Bangkok we encountered a bunch of bogus and scam outfits that paid nothing and didn;t look too trustworthy.
Thanks, sincerely,KO
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This was a really great post. It reminded me of a friend I had at University and hadn't thought of in ages. She used to live in Turkey and she'd spend hours telling us all about it. The nightlife sure is lively but you didn't ever talk of "going native". Did you hit any of the local nightspots – apparently they're wild!
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This was a really great post. It reminded me of a friend I had at University and hadn’t thought of in ages. She used to live in Turkey and she’d spend hours telling us all about it. The nightlife sure is lively but you didn’t ever talk of “going native”. Did you hit any of the local nightspots – apparently they’re wild!
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Hi and sorry for my late responses! Excuse the numerous typos as the keyboards in Istabbul are a bit different.
Felicia, I just emailed you.
Daniel H…the students are really, really nice and talkative. Mediterranean types who don't hold back. This is a really interesting place to work so I welcome anyone to try it:) Take care.
I will be back in the writing loop upon my arrival again in India in a month. I will be borrowing my boyfriend's laptop and then I can read all your insightful articles again.
Emily
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Hi and sorry for my late responses! Excuse the numerous typos as the keyboards in Istabbul are a bit different.
Felicia, I just emailed you.
Daniel H…the students are really, really nice and talkative. Mediterranean types who don’t hold back. This is a really interesting place to work so I welcome anyone to try it:) Take care.
I will be back in the writing loop upon my arrival again in India in a month. I will be borrowing my boyfriend’s laptop and then I can read all your insightful articles again.
Emily
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Nightlife? Ugh…I am such an old lady…I really need to get out more:)
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Hi All,
After studying in Manchester for 7 years now I am back to Istanbul where I come from..During my university degree, I had a great contribution from british friends so now I know that there are many british around in İstanbul for teaching english and here I would like to take a chance to say that if you are planing to come to Turkey to work and looking for a friend who can guide and help in any way, then I think I am the right person for you guys:))) feel free to contact me!(ozlembektas637@msn.com)
Good Luck to all of you!
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Hi All,
After studying in Manchester for 7 years now I am back to Istanbul where I come from..During my university degree, I had a great contribution from british friends so now I know that there are many british around in İstanbul for teaching english and here I would like to take a chance to say that if you are planing to come to Turkey to work and looking for a friend who can guide and help in any way, then I think I am the right person for you guys:))) feel free to contact me!(ozlembektas637@msn.com)
Good Luck to all of you!
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Teaching in Turkey is a bit mad at times: Turkish children and young adults are generally lots of fun though. I've found they've got lots of "respect" where it's warranted but also keep some of that crazy-energetic Mediterranean madness. Teaching primary there is much more like teaching in Italy than Austria…let's put it that way.
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Teaching in Turkey is a bit mad at times: Turkish children and young adults are generally lots of fun though. I’ve found they’ve got lots of “respect” where it’s warranted but also keep some of that crazy-energetic Mediterranean madness. Teaching primary there is much more like teaching in Italy than Austria…let’s put it that way.
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Hi Emily I am moving to Istanbul, and I have been trying to find names etc of schools to teach English, in Istanbul My Email is juliaclowes@aol.com I will be living in Besiktas Thanks
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Hello Julia and Emily I'm canadian and looking to go teach english this fall in istanbul… looking for a school… any suggestions. I will also be in Besitkas.
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Hello .. yeah there are more opportunities teaching English and u can work good schools and make good money
we had a teacher from Canada and he worked Marmara University a few years ago and he lived good place in Istanbul.. good luck.
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It is probably flat leaf parsley. Cilantro is not so prevalent in Turkish cooking and mostly confined to north-east parts. Most Turks never saw cilantro.
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Hi Emily, I'm teaching at a University in North Cyprus at the moment but am finding the entirely Turkish students a bit of a nightmare. Some are lovely but a good deal of them are immature, sorely lacking in respect, are terribly disruptive in class, loads of cheating and scamming going on etc. (it's not my opinion – my colleagues think the same). I am intending to try Istanbul next year as this place barely has a pulse (!) but am worried I'm going to have the same problems with the students. Your experience with Turkish students sounds great – can you offer any advice? Many thanks …
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I just registered to take a TEFL course in London this spring. I'm very interested in traveling and exploring local cultures by teaching abroad. Can anyone provide any advice or tips with the TEFL program? Thanks!
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I spent the past 6 years living and teaching in Turkey, four of those years in Istanbul. I left in September for personal reasons (among other things, I wanted to travel around central America, which I just got back from) but I miss it like crazy. I would love to go back, but I'm a bit burnt out on huge cities and traffic. Istanbul is huge…but, oh, it is terribly addictive! One thing to note- my adult students were marvelous, but the years I spent teaching in private universities and K-12s were very very challenging: rich turkish kids are often really immature, disruptive, lazy and they cheat like mad. It was exhausting!
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I am a teacher in Oklahoma. I have taught music for several years and I am now teaching gifted and talented children in grades three through sixth. I am planning on taking a trip to Istanbul at the end of May or beginning of June and I would like to visit with other teachers and students while I am there. Can you reccomend anyone or provide me with a contact?
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Avoid Berlitz Istanbul and Solmaz Ayarslan. Just Google these two and you will see why.
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HI Emily, I am thinking about teaching English in Istanbul and was wondering if you could email me several schools or companies that have a good reputation with foreign teachers thanks so much my email: ser11110@suffolk.edu
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hi emily, very helpful post. Any chance you could email me a list of english schools in Istanbul that you recommend?
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For those who are interested in going abroad to teach English without any training in teaching English as a Foreign Language, be aware that it's not just a matter of having students do workbook exercises and calling on them one at a time. It's also nothing like your high school or college foreign language classes. You really need some preparation- a certificate program at the very least. If you doubt that, try taking any passage from a newspaper and see if you can explain why the articles (a and the) are used the way they are. There are methods that aid language acquisition that you need to know, too.
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Hi Cyrus. here you go with one of the best site on TEFL. Visit: http://www.tefldevil.vom
-Yue
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Emily – You convinced me. Next time I’m traveling in Southern Europe, I make a long visit to your new hometown.
After all, traveling and teaching English keep us awake and curious
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Hi,Emily. My name is Nora and I live in Canada….Wow I just read everything above and let me tell you it sure is inspiring….I just got back from Istanbul 2 weeks ago, vacationing ofcourse… I fell in love with the country, the beauty and the people, I am so ready to pack up and leave. The one thing that came to my mind is to teach English in Istanbul. I dont really have any experience in teaching, I was thinking of getting my certificate from TESOL but I just need some help of doing it so…..If you can give me a few ideas of how I can start this move I would kindly appreciate it….Hope to hear from you soon….and pls you can e-mail me anytime mustangnora@hotmail.com
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Hi,
I am finishing my primary teaching position here in England this Summer and heading to Istanbul
) I am interested in teaching out there and hoping someone can give me some advice. I have a 4 yr degree in primary education. Ultimately I’d want to continue teaching with little ones but open to other options too. Please feel free to send me a msg. natalie.young@hotmail.com
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Hello
Thıs ıs Mehrdad Afsharı I am 43 dıvorced man wıthout any chıldren I am BA ın Englısh translatıon I have 8 years experıences ın teachıng Englısh would lıke to be a n Englısh teacher ın Istanbul.
Yours faıthfully
Mr Mehrdad Afsharı↵ -
Pleas Please stay away from Berlitz Istanbul if you come to teach ESL here……you will regret it. Istanbul is an amazing city so make your travel worthwhile……and stay far away from Berlitz.
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Dear Emily,
I was very happy I found your article! I am looking for a job as teacher of EFL in Istanbul, but I am not a native. Do you think I have fair chances with a native-like competence and an MA degree of teaching English language and literature? Do you know any people in the same shoes for instance?
Thank you for your help!
Gigi
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Hi guys and gals above. I’ll try to do this in a group email to keep it short.
Basically, if you have a teaching certificate (TESL, etc.) and are a native speaker (and sometimes a non-native speaker with a university degree- Master’s degrees especially) you could be eligible to work there. Non-native speakers generally have a harder time, but I’ve seen a French national and a Romanian national do it with slightly lower pay, however demoralizing that might seem at times). Try English time as a good school (there are lots throughout Istanbul). I can’t say much about other language schools as i haven’t worked then, but English Time was fine. Good luck!
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