Because I don’t have to worry about directing traffic in La Paz. There are men in zebra suits to do that for me.
Because the Andes are jagged, raw and breathtaking.
Because api and pastel is quite possibly the most indulgent breakfast on Earth.
Because trout from Lake Titicaca really is that good.
Because co-instructors like these make life (and work) a breeze!
Because there are ample opportunities to play with the “color accent” feature of my camera.
Because these are 11 of the best teenagers on Earth.
Because sometimes there are no words…
Because our home stay families in Sorata welcomed us with open arms.
Because this is the backyard of the Program House in Sorata.
Because teaching gringos to dance is always funny.
Because local, fresh fruits and vegetables are the norm, rather than an expensive indulgence.
Because this is one of those places…where there be dragons.
Because Lake Titicaca has an energy that is inexplicable, yet oh so tangible.
Because even men can weave.
Because glaciers such as these won’t be with us for much longer, and I feel honored to be in their presence.
Because of the sheer joy felt upon arriving at our first high altitude camp.
Because of high altitude soccer matches.
Because alpacas are awesome.
Because even altitude-induced vertigo can’t erase the beauty of this place.
Because glacier lakes still exist.
Because the starkness of the land is only part of its beauty.
Because making it to the top feels OH SO GOOD.
Because some feelings can cross any boundary.
Because cow dung fires are actually really warm.
Because accomplishments like these do not get old.
Because jumping pictures are always in order.
Because crossing one range of snow-capped mountains to reveal another equally majestic range in the not-so-distant view instills in you an extraordinary sense of place.
Because condors have up to a 10 foot wingspan and seeing them is said to bring one luck. We saw four.
Because these hands have touched so much.
Because sitting down at the end of the day feels fabulous.
Because sometimes the cheapest meals are the most delicious.
Because a little dust from the road can’t hide a smile.
Because even a LOT of dust from the road can’t hide a smile.
Because there is green in Bolivia as well.
Because keeping day packs dry going over rapids on the first day of a river trip seems like a good idea.
Because even 18 hours of constant rain can’t stop us from having a good time.
Because inner-tubes and baibo trees make a great raft.
Because I will never tire of taking pictures of my Chacos.
Because eating cow hearts is considered a delicacy.
Because learning the meaning and value of a hard days’ work is invaluable.
Because coca is a tradition, not a drug.
Because kids are beautiful.
Because a fresh coat of paint goes a long way.
Because service to others is infinitely fulfilling.
Because exhaustion is real.
Because salteñas are indescribably delicious.
Because the altiplano is truly, expansively inspirational.
Because a battered flag serves as a brilliant reminder of the strength, diversity and beauty of a nation.
Because some of these cactuses are over 2000 years old.
Because we made shirts that say “Where There Be Llamas”.
Because Maro is really strong.
Because fourteen people together for six weeks will not tire of group photos.
Because Liza is an amazing leaper.
Because jumping pictures never get old.
Because they were always willing to help.
Because deserts and active volcanoes blow my mind.
Because lunch came with a view.
Because reflection is found in so many places and forms.
Because vicuñas are probably my favorite animal.
Because flamingos live at 16,000 feet.
Because the colors of these mountains are other-worldly.
Because the altiplano sky really is that big.
Because a new band has just been born, and this will be its album cover.
Because we travel to where there be dragonz.
Because I am on this journey too.
Most photos and captions by the author. Additional photos provided by Marolyn Vidaurre de la Riva and Andy Coval.
Community Connection
Check out a trip-report of a incredible backpacking route in Bolivia, learn about the organization Sustainable Bolivia and read an interview with a photographer who specializes in Big Bolivian Sunsets.
If you’re jealous of Helen’s job, check out employment opportunities with the educational youth travel organization Where There Be Dragons.
To further stoke your wanderlust, read the full description of the Dragons 6-week Bolivia summer program.
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37 Comments... join the discussion!
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Beautiful photos! And it seems like you had a great crowd along. Hope you all had fun!
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I love the jumping pictures…hilarious! Beautiful scenery and sounds like you have an amazing job and great people to share the experience with. How’d you end up in Bolivia?
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I was originally posted there as a Peace Corps Volunteer. I fell in love immediately, and when the Peace Corps/Bolivia program was suspended a year ago, I vowed to find a way to go back. Thanks, Dragons!
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This is a beautiful and evocative essay, Helen! You really captured the spirit of a Dragons program (I did the Cambodia trip last summer). I’m so glad you shared this. Thanks!
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Thanks, Luisa! So glad to hear that your experience in Cambodia is still very much with you. Paz.
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Amazing photos and good story, Helen. I can see why Tim reveres the program so much.
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Thanks! I am flying back down to La Paz on Monday to do it all over again this fall. Tim will be working as well.
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Wonderful photos and wonderful words. Makes me want to go there as well…
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Go! Bolivia will not disappoint!
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Brilliant! I love your job!
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I can’t wait to lead another Dragons program myself! It really is one of the most rewarding and inspirational jobs in the world.
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Thanks so much for helping me share this. Best of luck to you this fall along the Mighty Mekong. We are certainly lucky to do the work that we do. Paz.
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If you can come up with 68 reasons why you love your job, then you’re in the right business! Congratulations–and thanks for showing people the world!
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Julie, I bet you could come up with 68 reasons why you love travel writing and editing!
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And now it’s, “68 Reasons Why We Love Helen Rortvedt!”
So great, Helen.
Nathan
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Thanks, Nathan! I hear you are off on your own international employment adventure! How exciting!
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Alternate title: 68 Reasons Why I Want Helen’s job
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Great picture of Maro!! Great photos all around!
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i spied multiple megamids on the high altitude soccer photo. hell yes!
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Dragons is all about megamids.
(wondering what a megamid is? read DM’s review: http://matadorgoods.com/megamid-the-ultimate-tent/)
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I love your job too. Wow.
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*whimpers*
I’m going to be able to get a job soon and I’ve been arguing with myself in my mind about what percent I want to save towards travel (specifically, my karate school’s next trip to China and a Dragons program). And that percentage just went sharply upward. Screw movies and ice cream and music.
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Helen! These are amazing! I just relived 6 weeks as I scrolled down this pagina.
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Can I be Helen when I grow up? Thanks for sharing, looks like you had a fabulous trip. Good luck on the next. I work for Where there Be Beans have you heard of us? We go to Guatemala. I hope to see you next summer! RB
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Hola Helen,
Thanks for trying to put in 68 images and captions a glimpse of what a Dragons course is all about. Wishing you condor wings to fly high over the Andes during this fall with Maro and Crister. Saludos a los maestros, Reynaldo, las familias de Sorata y Kaata.
Jallallla – Jallalla!!!!Lp
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Helen,
you are way too cool. Thanks so much for sharing this!
you have no idea what two awesome ladies I get to work with this fall! OMGhasta muy pronto!
-Crister↵ -
When I look out my window, I see a small city street in New Hampshire. When I drive down the road, I see beautiful wooded mountains and a strong community. When I think of how I am who I am today, I think of good friends, family, and wanderlust. When I think of wanderlust, I think of Helen. Keep on keepin on chica. Tell Bolivia I said ‘hola’. xo
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Helen, thumbs up for you. You have inspired us here in Africa as well that there are many beautiful places on this earth and certainly your pictures and your group have shown that truly there beautiful places out there. You guys are amazing!!!!!!!!! Congratulation for running such an amazing program.
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Helen, Such a long time since inauguration 1993. Bruce and I are so very fortunate to have known you and your family on this incredible journey. We look forward to lots more. Ann & Bruce.
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Amazing photos – i’m jealous – let me know when you’re recruiting next
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Well, I’m jealous.
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Awesome pics. I miss Bolivia.
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absolutly amazing! beautiful pictures
I really envy you.
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Enjoy the simple things .And if you have a friend who makes you laugh, spend lots and lots of time with him or her! LIVE while you are alive. Stay Young n Happy Always
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I read this post a couple of weeks ago and haven’t stopped thinking about it! Made me want to instantaneously quit my job and become a guide! — For now i’ve just bookmarked the Dragons website
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Helena, I get tears in my eyes every time I read this. Oh, what I would do to be back there right now! Any time I need a pick me up I go to this page — it’s bookmarked under “amazing memories”. Even when I glance at the link while looking for a different one, the a wave of nostalgia consumes me.
Also, I’d never heard the song ‘Wagon wheel’ until you sang it this past summer. Apparently I was living under a rock because it’s immensely popular here at Colgate. Regardless, I think of you and your amazing voice singing it in the program house kitchen every time it comes on.
Thinking of you,
Maddy↵
